Journal

25 Aug 2026

Which stretch of the river is yours

There are three runs above Rishikesh and the shops in Tapovan sell them as one. Brahmpuri is 9 km and Grade II, for children and first-timers. Shivpuri is...

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13 Aug 2026

What the monsoon does to a beach camp

The camp is on sand the river deposited, and every July the river takes it back. From the last week of June the water climbs the beach a metre a day; the t...

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01 Aug 2026

Packing for a night on the sand

A torch, because the camp lights go off at eleven and the bathroom block is forty metres away. A warm layer from November even when the day was hot, becaus...

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